We spent the first two days and last full day of our time in Burma / Myanmar at Tracy's house. Though we love visiting strange places, as many of you know, visiting Greg's sister was the real impetus of the trip (secondary purpose: leaving Manila during Holy Week when the city becomes a ghost town and all the local resorts jack up prices). We were lucky she was able to take a day off of work to spend with us!
Tracy shares her house with another teacher; they live just two blocks from the school they teach at. The house is well sized, but not enough room for six of us, including Beth and Andrew, so they opted for a hotel, the Sedona Hotel, the closest to Tracy's house. They give it OK reviews - good sized room, good breakfast buffet, but a few problems with service.
Sunday afternoon we visited Shwedegon Pagoda, the largest temple in the city. One could spend hours wandering around all the small side temples, taking pictures as the sun changes position, watching all the locals going about daily devotions or special occasion rituals. We visited in the late afternoon and early evening, which turned out to be great not just for photos, but also for our feet. One must remove all foot coverings (even socks) and the marble floors would be quite hot in the middle of the day, I think!
Wm and Patch learned how to ring a temple bell and a nice lady taught them how to wash a buddha. Tracy was a bit nervous because she had never seen any foreigners washing the statues, but I figured since the lady was placing a cup in Patch's hand and motioning him how to gently pour it, it was OK. And of course when the big brother saw the little brother do it, he had to try, too. Monkey see, monkey do.
We tried after to go to the big market, but apparently it closes Sunday evening. Ooops! Thankfully, Wm and Patch still had a bit more left in them, so we headed to a nice restaurant, Monsoon. The boys loved the tofu chips and strawberry juice, and then proceeded to chow down on the peanut butter sandwiches I kept in my bag, just in case. The waiter was concerned something was wrong with our food, but I assured him not. I had a very flavorful pumpkin in coconut milk curry, also splitting some stirfried greens with Tracy.
The next morning we got a bit of a late start, since we had to wait around for the travel agents to pay for our flights and hotels to Bagan and Inle Lake. Since one can't use credit cards or bank wire due to the financial sanctions, we had to bring cash. It felt somewhat clandestine, having someone tell Andrew on the phone to give $600 cash to someone who will show up around 10AM wearing blue and yellow. Luckily, he handed the dough to the right person and later that evening the plane tickets (yes, old school paper tickets) arrived.
Then we tried the market again, only to learn it was closed on Mondays. Ooops - should have read the guide book more closely! Luckily, a cute restaurant with spaghetti for Wm (and actually a really tasty tuna sandwich for me - the rest of them ate Asian) was next door. After that, it was time for Patch's nap, so back again to Tracy's house.
The afternoon we took a walking tour of the old city where British buildings - in various states of disrepair or upkeep. This is where we both felt the city resembled Kolkata - the architecture reminiscent of the homeland, but trying to be adapted for a hot, muggy climate. Wide sidewalks, rare in most of south and south east Asia, but welcomed by tourists and many street hawkers selling snacks and books. We saw quite a few copies of George Orwell's Burmese Days - as well as pretty much any thing else you could want.
Sadly, with two hot, sweaty, and dirty boys on our backs, we had to skip afternoon tea at The Strand, the swank hotel where rooms in the high tourist season can run $600 / night. A true colonial masterpiece with teak furniture in all rooms, it is highlighted in all the Travel + Leisure type of "must stay" lists. I actually contemplated staying one night there, since during the hot season one can have a bargain of $175/night. We opted for more time with Tracy, though, so The Strand will have to wait for a visit back :)
After that walk, we caught a taxi to a Burmese cafeteria type of restaurant - where we could look and point for our meal. Much better than reading off of a menu. Fresh fruit juice and lime sodas also much appreciated! In season in April: strawberry, mango, pineapple. Sometimes apple and papaya. No mango yet - those don't come until late June or July, like India. Which makes us wonder how the mango can be a year round fruit in Manila.
The taxi dropped us at the top of Tracy's road; only one gate is open to vehicle traffic in her neighborhood at night. Though this meant we had to walk a few blocks, it also meant we serendipitiously (is that a word?) happened on a sun bear cub. Yes, a real live bear cub, walking on the street, with its keeper, who was feeding it a rice and meat mix from a large steel bowl. At first I slowed, so we could all have a closer look - until reality struck when Patch said, "Mama, up up. Bear is scary." I came to my senses, realizing as cute as the cub might be - IT WAS A BEAR the size of Patch.
Greg later asked what I was thinking (he missed the encounter, having stopped at the grocery store for more bread), and I replied honestly that I thought it was on a leash so it would be OK. Then Greg pointed out a bear on a leash didn't really sound safe either. Touche! Every morning for the rest of the trip, within the first five minutes of waking up, Patch would say some variant of, "I saw a bear. It was scary!" Hope this won't harm any future zoo trips...
[brief interlude - Tuesday/Wednesday in Bagan (part 3). Thursday/Friday in Inle Lake (part 4)]
The last day back, Saturday, we finally made it to the market. Third time is the charm - or should we say "third time lucky," like in the Thomas the Tank Engine books? Greg and Andrew were our designated hagglers - us ladies just chased the boys around, trying to keep them from breaking anything! Andrew finally got a good price for a carved buddha troika (prices ranged from $15 to $55 for the same piece!), Beth found a Burma pig, Greg found me a silver necklace I had seen in Inle Lake but decided not to buy - and then regretted, and we got some tshirts, too. We looked a the gems - the thing to buy - but having zero knowledge on that front (and not to mention no more extra cash on our last day), we kept to the window shopping in that section.
We debated lunch out, but feeling hot and yucky - and having to leave at 3PM for the airport, decided lunch near Tracy's house so Patch could nap was the wisest course of action. A short three days in Yangon / Rangoon, but quite memorable!
Tracy shares her house with another teacher; they live just two blocks from the school they teach at. The house is well sized, but not enough room for six of us, including Beth and Andrew, so they opted for a hotel, the Sedona Hotel, the closest to Tracy's house. They give it OK reviews - good sized room, good breakfast buffet, but a few problems with service.
We arrived at Tracy's house and then had lunch at a nearby delicious Chinese/Thai/Burmese restaurant near Tracy's house and then early to bed. When in doubt about what to order, Tracy said just get the Shan noodles - and they were good! Tracy had wanted to show us a nice hotel Sunday brunch buffet - and honestly we wanted to go - but the boys were in the need of some down time after our early morning flight. Luckily, the local food was tasty.
Wm and Patch learned how to ring a temple bell and a nice lady taught them how to wash a buddha. Tracy was a bit nervous because she had never seen any foreigners washing the statues, but I figured since the lady was placing a cup in Patch's hand and motioning him how to gently pour it, it was OK. And of course when the big brother saw the little brother do it, he had to try, too. Monkey see, monkey do.
We tried after to go to the big market, but apparently it closes Sunday evening. Ooops! Thankfully, Wm and Patch still had a bit more left in them, so we headed to a nice restaurant, Monsoon. The boys loved the tofu chips and strawberry juice, and then proceeded to chow down on the peanut butter sandwiches I kept in my bag, just in case. The waiter was concerned something was wrong with our food, but I assured him not. I had a very flavorful pumpkin in coconut milk curry, also splitting some stirfried greens with Tracy.
The next morning we got a bit of a late start, since we had to wait around for the travel agents to pay for our flights and hotels to Bagan and Inle Lake. Since one can't use credit cards or bank wire due to the financial sanctions, we had to bring cash. It felt somewhat clandestine, having someone tell Andrew on the phone to give $600 cash to someone who will show up around 10AM wearing blue and yellow. Luckily, he handed the dough to the right person and later that evening the plane tickets (yes, old school paper tickets) arrived.
Then we tried the market again, only to learn it was closed on Mondays. Ooops - should have read the guide book more closely! Luckily, a cute restaurant with spaghetti for Wm (and actually a really tasty tuna sandwich for me - the rest of them ate Asian) was next door. After that, it was time for Patch's nap, so back again to Tracy's house.
Sadly, with two hot, sweaty, and dirty boys on our backs, we had to skip afternoon tea at The Strand, the swank hotel where rooms in the high tourist season can run $600 / night. A true colonial masterpiece with teak furniture in all rooms, it is highlighted in all the Travel + Leisure type of "must stay" lists. I actually contemplated staying one night there, since during the hot season one can have a bargain of $175/night. We opted for more time with Tracy, though, so The Strand will have to wait for a visit back :)After that walk, we caught a taxi to a Burmese cafeteria type of restaurant - where we could look and point for our meal. Much better than reading off of a menu. Fresh fruit juice and lime sodas also much appreciated! In season in April: strawberry, mango, pineapple. Sometimes apple and papaya. No mango yet - those don't come until late June or July, like India. Which makes us wonder how the mango can be a year round fruit in Manila.
The taxi dropped us at the top of Tracy's road; only one gate is open to vehicle traffic in her neighborhood at night. Though this meant we had to walk a few blocks, it also meant we serendipitiously (is that a word?) happened on a sun bear cub. Yes, a real live bear cub, walking on the street, with its keeper, who was feeding it a rice and meat mix from a large steel bowl. At first I slowed, so we could all have a closer look - until reality struck when Patch said, "Mama, up up. Bear is scary." I came to my senses, realizing as cute as the cub might be - IT WAS A BEAR the size of Patch.
Greg later asked what I was thinking (he missed the encounter, having stopped at the grocery store for more bread), and I replied honestly that I thought it was on a leash so it would be OK. Then Greg pointed out a bear on a leash didn't really sound safe either. Touche! Every morning for the rest of the trip, within the first five minutes of waking up, Patch would say some variant of, "I saw a bear. It was scary!" Hope this won't harm any future zoo trips...
[brief interlude - Tuesday/Wednesday in Bagan (part 3). Thursday/Friday in Inle Lake (part 4)]
The last day back, Saturday, we finally made it to the market. Third time is the charm - or should we say "third time lucky," like in the Thomas the Tank Engine books? Greg and Andrew were our designated hagglers - us ladies just chased the boys around, trying to keep them from breaking anything! Andrew finally got a good price for a carved buddha troika (prices ranged from $15 to $55 for the same piece!), Beth found a Burma pig, Greg found me a silver necklace I had seen in Inle Lake but decided not to buy - and then regretted, and we got some tshirts, too. We looked a the gems - the thing to buy - but having zero knowledge on that front (and not to mention no more extra cash on our last day), we kept to the window shopping in that section.
We debated lunch out, but feeling hot and yucky - and having to leave at 3PM for the airport, decided lunch near Tracy's house so Patch could nap was the wisest course of action. A short three days in Yangon / Rangoon, but quite memorable!
1 comment:
ySaw a bear... it was so scary... Aunt Tracy has a gate... ;)
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